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Interaction between the water particle kinematics of a partial clapotis (partly standing wave) and those of the washing motion (wave runup and downrush) is extremely important with respect to the wave forces exerted on sloping structures. |
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The water motion occuring at slopes in the presence of waves can be interpreted as a constrained vibratory motion with a plurality of degrees of freedom. |
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At the process of breaking waves on a slope the washing motion (degree of freedom) can be changed extraordinarily by hollow concrete elements allowing the inside passage of the backwash water of previously broken waves. |
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